08 Dec 2012
Tasting of Burgundy wines
The 3rd of December 2012 an event had place in the Academy of Sommelier Mozart Wine House: a professional tasting of Burgundy wines. “Luding” presented an export manager of Roux Pere et Fils, Xavier Badinand who told us about famous wines of Cote D'Or of vintage 2009-2010, the Roux family, wine culture and his impressions of Russia.
Mozart Wine House: Xavier, during the presentation you said that Roux Pere et Fils is currently managed by Sebastian and Mathew Roux, wine-makers in five generation. The family makes wine for more than 400 years, since 1855 every owner increased the lands by buying vineyards in the best corners of Cote D'Or, so now the household has 70 hectares of vineyards in 13 villages of Burgundy. However the business stay a family one, you are the only one who is not Roux in Roux Pere et Fils. How did it happen that you were accepted?
Xavier Badinand: You are right, being a very traditional Burgundy winery, family Roux manage all the processes as Mathews is the wine-maker, Sebastian control sales in the West, and the eldest of Roux, 84 years old grandfather works with VIP clients, meeting them in the cave. As for me, we are old friends with Sebastian that is how I came to the household, and for two years I work as export manager of East in Roux Pere et Fils. Before this I worked in sales of well-known La Chablisienne.
MWH: And what is your way in wine-making?
XB: it is rather interesting, as I was born in a family which has good vineyards – from fathers side in Pouilly-Fuisse, from mothers – near Beaujolais region. We are in the sector for 200 years, my blood is the blood of wine-maker. But when I was young I didn't feel myself interested, you know, I was a son of the owner, I didn't want to work in the field, so I studied management in Paris. Later I've heard the voice of the land and came back, by 27 years old I graduated from a professional School of third level where the professors were really masters – wine-makers, technologists, sommeliers. And after some experience in different parts of Burgundy I came to Roux.
MWH: Tell us about the winery, vineyard, wine Roux Pere et Fils.
XB: from one side, this is a tradition, from another – our wine-maker is young, 34 years old and he studied and traveled a lot in Australia, California, other places. Now it is a trend in Burgundy – professionals leave for 5-7 years to see the world, to get a new vision. We combine lots of things like hand labor and rational treatment, oak aging is 2-3 year casks. We want our wine to show the taste of the land, as in Burgundy terroir is the most important thing.
MWH: and what about bio-dynamic and organic?
XB: It is not so easy to be bio-dynamic in Burgundy. Sure in the South where is sunny the whole year the vine does not get ill so often, in our climate only one from ten vintages would be “easy”, the other time we have to struggle for the harvest and the wine-making skill should be shown starting from vine treatment. But the hardest years give us the best wine.
MWH: You said that you studied from masters, can you tell us some secrets?
XB: Well there lots of them. For example, you know that french people drink red wine with cheese, and one of my professors, the President of Sommeliers of France used to make tasting of cheeses and wines and in 80% the best match for a cheese was a good white wine, as tannins don't help the cheese tastes to show off. But traditions are traditions and red wine is recommended to cheeses.
MWH: We ask a traditional question to every Wine School graduate. What would you advise our students the Academy of Sommelier Mozart Wine House?
XB: It's not evident... Beware of blinkers, stay opened as there is some place to every wine, as well as time changes everything. Don't try to find “the best” wine, as wine can be the best for someone, some day in some conditions.
MWH: This is not your first time in Russia, what would you say about wine culture of our country?
XB: First of all I'm happy that the culture grows. It is not strange as a country with such a culture of Food will absolutely find its style in wine. Another thing good for me is that this style understands Burgundy wine.
Mozart Wine House: Xavier, during the presentation you said that Roux Pere et Fils is currently managed by Sebastian and Mathew Roux, wine-makers in five generation. The family makes wine for more than 400 years, since 1855 every owner increased the lands by buying vineyards in the best corners of Cote D'Or, so now the household has 70 hectares of vineyards in 13 villages of Burgundy. However the business stay a family one, you are the only one who is not Roux in Roux Pere et Fils. How did it happen that you were accepted?
Xavier Badinand: You are right, being a very traditional Burgundy winery, family Roux manage all the processes as Mathews is the wine-maker, Sebastian control sales in the West, and the eldest of Roux, 84 years old grandfather works with VIP clients, meeting them in the cave. As for me, we are old friends with Sebastian that is how I came to the household, and for two years I work as export manager of East in Roux Pere et Fils. Before this I worked in sales of well-known La Chablisienne.
MWH: And what is your way in wine-making?
XB: it is rather interesting, as I was born in a family which has good vineyards – from fathers side in Pouilly-Fuisse, from mothers – near Beaujolais region. We are in the sector for 200 years, my blood is the blood of wine-maker. But when I was young I didn't feel myself interested, you know, I was a son of the owner, I didn't want to work in the field, so I studied management in Paris. Later I've heard the voice of the land and came back, by 27 years old I graduated from a professional School of third level where the professors were really masters – wine-makers, technologists, sommeliers. And after some experience in different parts of Burgundy I came to Roux.
MWH: Tell us about the winery, vineyard, wine Roux Pere et Fils.
XB: from one side, this is a tradition, from another – our wine-maker is young, 34 years old and he studied and traveled a lot in Australia, California, other places. Now it is a trend in Burgundy – professionals leave for 5-7 years to see the world, to get a new vision. We combine lots of things like hand labor and rational treatment, oak aging is 2-3 year casks. We want our wine to show the taste of the land, as in Burgundy terroir is the most important thing.
MWH: and what about bio-dynamic and organic?
XB: It is not so easy to be bio-dynamic in Burgundy. Sure in the South where is sunny the whole year the vine does not get ill so often, in our climate only one from ten vintages would be “easy”, the other time we have to struggle for the harvest and the wine-making skill should be shown starting from vine treatment. But the hardest years give us the best wine.
MWH: You said that you studied from masters, can you tell us some secrets?
XB: Well there lots of them. For example, you know that french people drink red wine with cheese, and one of my professors, the President of Sommeliers of France used to make tasting of cheeses and wines and in 80% the best match for a cheese was a good white wine, as tannins don't help the cheese tastes to show off. But traditions are traditions and red wine is recommended to cheeses.
MWH: We ask a traditional question to every Wine School graduate. What would you advise our students the Academy of Sommelier Mozart Wine House?
XB: It's not evident... Beware of blinkers, stay opened as there is some place to every wine, as well as time changes everything. Don't try to find “the best” wine, as wine can be the best for someone, some day in some conditions.
MWH: This is not your first time in Russia, what would you say about wine culture of our country?
XB: First of all I'm happy that the culture grows. It is not strange as a country with such a culture of Food will absolutely find its style in wine. Another thing good for me is that this style understands Burgundy wine.